Land Beyond the Growing
Hill
Kennith Rosario
It had been three months since I was in Leh. If you
were to visit the Stupa before sunset on any given day that week you would have
seen me, a man with a camera on a tripod, wearing shorts and a furry jacket
that even Liza Minnelli would shy away from wearing, and balancing a pot of
Namkeen Chai on a tiny erosional fin. Everyone on the road from the guesthouse
I stayed in to the bazaar knew me, and I knew everyone
Being a videographer was a relatively new concept for
the locals. I had set up my camera in the exact same location every day for the
past week to capture the perfect footage of the sun rising from behind the
barren hills. The old man selling Namphey, a kind of huskless barley, on the
foot of the hill questioned my ability to click a simple picture. The lady with
a baby strapped on her back, who visited the Stupa every evening, offered to
click the picture for me. I could hear the silent applause from the locals the
day I announced my success in shooting the sunrise.
Summer had officially arrived with the increase in
uprooted spinach and garlic saplings being sold in the market. The woollen
mufflers and sweaters that the women knit through the winter were now on sale.
The day-bazaar collected more people than lived in the town. The road from
Srinagar had just been declared open a couple of days earlier, which would mean
an entry of heated buses, filled with tourists who could never have known how
different the wild camomile flowers growing along the sides of the inner lanes
of Leh smelled from the tea sold in the supermarkets of Delhi or Mumbai.
I left the town the next morning, this time to shoot
the sun rising from the horizon of the Pangong Lake. The sky was unusually
clear that day. The juxtaposition of the brown spotless hills with the blue
spotless sky seduced me to stop the car and begin filming on the way, but the
long journey ahead and the thought of seeing the same blue sky above the partly
turquoise, partly teal and partly sapphire lake was too alluring to risk a
weather change.
I crossed villages, the highest motorable passes,
valleys, streams, rivers and tunnels made of snow with protruding snow cones.
Just when I had begun to get oblivious to the majesty around me, a thick
unending cloud of loose dust blanketed my car. I stopped. I had no courage to
let go of the brakes. What if there was a blind curve at the end of the haze?
The brown cloud started thinning as the wind blew. I
still held on to the brake, fearing the car would roll down the hill if I
didn’t. There was a vibrating noise at the left rear window interspersed with a
knocking sound that echoed inside. With my hands tightly clutching the steering
wheel and my feet firmly holding down the brake I turned my head back as much
as I could.
It was a local Ladakhi woman knocking and saying
something simultaneously. I gestured to her to come to my window. I rolled down
the glass a little while fanning the dust out with my hand.
I greeted her with a ‘Jullay’ and tried making
conversation with the little Bhoti I had learnt in Leh. She replied in Hindi
highlighting my incompetence in the Ladakhi language. She said that she saw me
halt there for a suspiciously long time and thought of inquiring if everything
was alright. She was speaking to me but her eyes were scanning the inside of my
car. She lived in a village miles perpendicular from the highway. Cars never
stopped on that road. But my car had been stationed there so long that she mustered
her courage and walked up to it. She said she had never been in a car in her
life.
What kind of a person has never been in a car? I
offered to drop her to her village. Without a moment of hesitation or contemplation,
she agreed.
She sat in the car with her head-dress of orange
ribbon curled up like a flower touching the walls of my car. I could tell she
belonged to the Dard community by the burst of floral accessories in her
attire. She firmly held the seat with her hands as the car went down the
highway towards her village which she said was beyond a hill that had been
growing ever since she was a child.
We passed a boulevard of wild yellow flowers,
mysteriously unbroken sand dunes and strange rock formations. She felt disoriented at such high speed. ‘The
last time I went so fast was on a wild donkey. All the villagers came searching
for me that day’, she said.
Her village was nothing but a vast stretch of land
with a dozen scattered houses beyond a hill overlooking a stream. I stopped
right outside her house. She didn’t invite me in. Instead she took me to a farm
across the stream.
I had seen nothing as delicate yet innately strong as
the multitude – running almost in hundreds – of stone pyramids ornamenting the
barren land. The wind and sand blew hard against them testing their ability to
balance. ‘This is our guardian land,’ she said.
Every stone had a story, a wish. She took me from one
pyramid to another, telling me the story behind each structure. We ended at a
pyramid that was erected by her parents wishing she would be born. ‘They found
the perfect stones on the bed of the stream,’ she said.
The sunlight reflected off one pyramid and the next,
creating a rhythmic show of light. We reached a yellow pasture. Himalayan
marmots emerged from the bushes unaware of our presence. Some fought playfully,
some ate flowers, some collected them, and some just wandered about aimlessly.
They occasionally gave way to the donkeys passing through the pasture, but most
just stood there staunchly, expecting the big guys to take a detour.
I told the Ladakhi woman to wait there for me. I ran
back to my car, returned with my camera and began filming. I recorded
everything as quickly as I could. I could not bear to look at the sight through
a view-finder for long.
When we returned to the village, a group of people had
circled the vehicle trying to peep through the tinted windows. What kind of
village has never been in a car? I took them all on a drive, in batches.
Daytime was spent in the vast space with an unending
horizon on all four sides. Every person was accompanied by an animal in the
fields. Some people toiled the land, some planted saplings, some instructed
others, and some just sat staring at nothing in particular. Time was a concept
unknown. Space, boundless.
I departed the village late in the afternoon. I
reached Pangong in the evening, captured the setting sun and left for home the
next week.
*
When you chose to live in a city, you tacitly sign up
to adhere to the rigid deadlines that a city life demands. I did freelance work
for an international travel website that required me to upload video blogs. The
same evening that I got back to Mumbai, I edited the footage I had captured in
the village, cleaned up the rough edges and uploaded it on the website. Feeling
quite conceited about my work, I shut the laptop, made myself a hot cup of
Kahwa and drifted off to sleep.
I woke up the next morning to a multitude of messages,
tweets and emails. No one had tried to communicate with me with such urgency
before. I turned on my laptop and went through my phone simultaneously. My
video had gone viral overnight.
My phone buzzed all morning. Everyone was asking for
the location of the village. The website owners called me the same afternoon.
‘You struck gold,’ they said. A travel agency offered them a partnership to
publicise the place and promote it on an international scale.
I sat on my bed, opened my laptop and read the long
string of comments below my video and saw the number of views rise every hour.
My phone vibrated on the side table. Another person wanting to get there.
Disclosing the location of the village would mean an influx, of the same
tourist buses that I so resented into a village where people had never even
seen a car. The cacophony of tour guides on loud speakers, the allure of money,
the adherence of deadlines, the constant flash lights of cameras. But who was I
to decide their fate?
I cleared the voices in my head and reloaded the
website. I signed in as an uploader, took down the video and shut the laptop
with a thud. It was time to travel again.
Kennith Rosario is a Mass
Media-Journalism graduate from St. Xavier's College, Mumbai. He has studied
Creative Writing at University of Oxford as an International Scholar.
Travelling, reading and writing are three things he can never have enough of.
Writing short fiction has always fascinated him along with reading and
discussing other people's work and understanding the diverse thought-processes
and experiences that play a role in fiction writing. He lives and writes in
Mumbai.
Some beautiful and haunting descriptions in this story give it a distinctly magical quality.
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